Civil War Era Fashion Show

Embroidery accomplished by a young camper

Although battle reenactments and vintage firearms may be the first things to come to mind when you think of commemorations of the Civil War Sesquicentennial, depicting the history of the Civil War era entails much more. Last night the Fifth Maine Regiment Museum offered one of the many events scheduled statewide in Maine: a Civil War fashion show that coincided with the culmination of the Victorian Secrets History Camp.

Carolyn Lawson, Sally Hall, and Delle Pierce of the Third Maine Volunteer Infantry rode the ferry to Peaks Island, dressed in their 1860s finery. Carolyn's personal history with Civil War reenacting began 15 years ago with the sewing of her first reproduction dress. All that experience shows; her educational living history programs for the public, school children, and reenactors have become popular, particularly now that we've entered the Sesquicentennial.

Civil War Era Fashion Show runway

With the help of school-age campers who served as her models, Carolyn talked the audience through the numerous layers of undergarments that ladies would wear and the logic that inspired their design. Call it a social history of beauty.

"What gives the 1860s fashions 'the look'?" Carolyn asked. "A beautiful woman in the 1860s has a round face, a long swan-like neck, narrow sloping shoulders, a tiny waist, little feet, and we don't even talk about everything else in between." Hairstyles accentuated the roundness of the face. The layers of petticoats and the hoop skirt, combined with a corset and fitted dress bodice, created the effect of a small waist.

Carolyn Lawson dresses a model in layers of undergarments, including the hoop skirts

Carolyn discussed how dress designs reflected a number of practical issues, such as protecting the precious dress fabrics from body oils, perspiration, and potential rust from corset stays or hoop rings. Hence, dressmakers incorporated removable collars, corset cover, and dress petticoat, all to protect the dress fabric.

Carolyn's Suggested Resources for living history devotees and reenactors:

• Juanita Leisch's "Who Wore What?"  
• Elizabeth Stewart Clark's practical approach to dress reproductions using and correcting Simplicity patterns